March 26, 2007

Keagungan Situs Megalitik Gunung Padang

Pikiran Rakyat
Jumat, 20 Januari 2006
Oleh BUDI BRAHMANTYO



ADALAH seorang pangeran kelana pencari ilmu dari Kerajaan Sunda pada sekira akhir abad ke-15, pernah menjelajahi Pulau Jawa dan mengunjungi tempat-tempat keramat sepanjang pantai utara, menyeberang ke Pulau Bali, dan kembali ke Jawa Barat melalui jalur selatan. Pengelanaan sang pangeran kelana berjulukan Bujangga Manik itu, harus kita akui sebagai aktivitas wisata/penjelajahan pertama yang tercatat di nusantara oleh pribumi Sunda.

Secara luar biasa, ia mencatat lebih kurang 450 nama geografis yang masih banyak dapat dikenal hingga sekarang. Catatan dalam lembar-lembar lontar yang sekarang tersimpan di Museum Bodleian, Oxford, Inggris itu, diakhiri dengan suatu persiapan perjalanan spiritualnya ke Nirwana, di suatu tempat kebuyutan yang ditemukannya di hulu Sungai Cisokan, Cianjur.

Dari beberapa penggalan sajaknya, di antaranya ia menulis sebagai berikut,

Eta hulu na Ci Sokan neumu lemah kabuyutan/ na lemah nalingga manik/ teherna dek sri maliput/ ser mangun nalingga payung/ nyanghareup ka Bahu Mitra/ ku ngaing geus dibabakan/ dibalay diundak-undak/ dibalay sakulilingna/ ti handap ku mungkal datar/ ser mangun ku mungkal bener/ ti luhur ku batu putih / diawuran manik asra/ carenang heuleut-heuleutna/ wangun tujuh guna aing / padanan deung pakayuan dan seterusnya.

Walaupun belum ada kepastian di mana kebuyutan di hulu Cisokan yang disebut Bujangga Manik itu, tetapi di hulu daerah aliran sungai Cisokan-Cikondang, Cianjur, satu-satunya tempat kebuyutan adalah Situs Gunung Padang. Situs tersebut merupakan suatu "bangunan" yang disusun dari tumpukan kolom-kolom bebatuan yang dibangun berundak-undak, berada di puncak bukit kecil yang dikenal sebagai Gunung Padang.

Situs Megalitik Gunung Padang yang terletak di Desa Karyamukti, Kecamatan Campaka, Kabupaten Cianjur dipercayai oleh para ahli Arkeologi sebagai situs Megalitik terbesar di Asia Tenggara. Pusaka budaya prasejarah di Provinsi Jawa Barat yang sangat potensial menjadi tujuan wisata budaya dan ekowisata ini, sayangnya kurang terawat dengan baik. Selain itu, jarak yang cukup jauh dari jalan negara Cianjur-Sukabumi (20 km lebih) dengan akses sempit berliku-liku dan beraspal tipis yang mudah hancur oleh satu kali musim hujan, menjadi kendala pertama para calon pelancong.

Mendekati lokasi situs, kendala lain sudah menghadang pula, tidak adanya penunjuk arah menuju lokasi situs, dan jalan perkebunan teh yang rusak atau berlapis batu tajam. Menyadari banyaknya kendala pengembangan di balik potensi wisata yang luar biasa ini, Balai Pengelolaan Purbakala dan Nilai-nilai Sejarah Tradisional Dinas Kebudayaan dan Pariwisata Jawa Barat, pernah mengadakan kegiatan positif berupa "Bakti Wisata" yang diikuti oleh masyarakat dan mahasiswa. Kegiatan itu, diharapkan dapat merintis pengembangan ke arah wisata yang lebih baik dan menarik perhatian serius penanganan situs yang menjadi jalur budaya Megalitik Asia-Pasifik ini (Pikiran Rakyat, 26 Mei 2005).

Tetapi, bagi para pelancong yang ingin mendapatkan nilai lebih dari aktivitas berwisatanya, rasanya kendala tersebut justru menjadi bagian dari perjalanannya yang akan menjadi catatan pengalaman yang mengasyikkan.

Batu Andesit Basaltis

Situs arkeologi ini, sebenarnya sangat menarik pula jika dipandang dari sudut geologi. Hal ini karena batu penyusun konstruksi situs, dari segi geologi mempunyai cara terbentuk yang khusus. Selain itu, secara geografis, posisi Gunung Padang terhadap gunung-gunung lain di sekitarnya, terutama Gunung Gede, mungkin dijadikan kriteria pemilihan bukit oleh arsitek prasejarah pembangun situs ini.

Jika kita telah mencapai situs ini, kesan keagungan dan kehebatan masyarakat purbakala langsung menyergap suasana. Perasaan ini begitu kuat ketika sampai di pelataran pertama setelah mendaki tangga-tangga batu setinggi lebih kurang 30 meter dengan kemiringan hampir 40 derajat. Batu-batu berbentuk kolom poligonal ini, dipasang melintang sebagai tangga sejak kaki bukit. Di puncak bukit, pada pelataran pertama, pintu gerbangnya diapit kolom batu berdiri, sehingga benar-benar seperti suatu tempat check in.

Di pelataran undak pertama, kita dibuat takjub oleh karya leluhur kita. Betapa tidak, hampir seluruh konstruksi situs ini, disusun dari kolom-kolom batu. Banyak kolom batu mempunyai dimensi poligonal segi lima atau enam dengan permukaan yang halus. Orang awam, bisa terkecoh menganggap batu-batu ini adalah buatan tangan manusia dengan cara ditatah, padahal, secara geologis, proses alamiah bisa membentuk kolom batu yang berpermukaan halus dengan sendirinya.

Kolom batu poligonal terbentuk ketika aliran magma membeku. Sama halnya dengan terbentuknya retakan-retakan poligonal ketika lumpur mengering. Begitu pula yang terjadi pada cairan magma yang mengalir ke luar permukaan bumi sebagai aliran lava. Ketika membatu, proses-proses fisik akan membentuk suatu retakan-retakan pendinginan berbentuk kolom-kolom poligonal tersebut.

Proses demikian, adalah proses yang sama yang membentuk tangga-tangga segi enam raksasa di Irlandia yang terkenal sebagai The Giant Causeway, atau kolom-kolom tinggi di Devil's Tower di Ohio, Amerika Serikat, atau kolom batu yang menghiasi dinding-dinding galian batu di G. Selacau dan Lagadar, Cimahi Selatan. Semuanya terjadi pada saat proses pendinginan lava menjadi batuan beku yang umumnya berjenis batu andesit atau basaltis.

Di Gunung Padang, batu-batu yang berwarna abu-abu gelap ini, berjenis andesit basaltis. Gunung Padang diperkirakan merupakan hasil pembekuan magma pada lingkungan sisa-sisa gunung api purbakala berumur Pleistosen Awal, sekira 21 juta tahun yang lalu. Keberadaan sumber alamiah kolom batu penyusun konstruksi situs, dapat dikenali jika kita mengamati kaki bukit di mana kolom-kolom batu alamiah yang bukan berasal dari reruntuhan situs, masih berserakan.

Dengan sangat cerdas, arsitek Megalitik yang diperkirakan hidup sekira 2.000 - 1.000 tahun yang lampau, telah memilih tempat yang cocok dari sisi ketersediaan sumber daya batu in-situ.

Mengarah ke Gunung Gede

Ketakjuban kita terhadap hasil karya para leluhur masyarakat Jawa Barat purbakala itu, akan semakin bertambah ketika kita terus mengamati susunan batu demi batu, serta lingkungan sekitarnya. Sang arsitek telah memilih bukit ini, mungkin dengan survei lama dan penjelajahan yang sangat jauh. Pemilihan bukit sedemikian rupa, sehingga selain adanya sumber batu yang tersedia untuk membangun tempat pemujaan ini, arah memanjang situs begitu tepat menghadap ke arah Gunung Gede (elevasi 2.958 m)!

Persis arah 10 derajat utara-barat pada kompas, panjang situs tepat mengarah ke gunung yang memang telah menjadi gunung kebuyutan dan dianggap suci dan sakral oleh masyarakat Kerajaan Pajajaran. Gunung Gede, mungkin juga di anggap sama suci dan sakralnya oleh masyarakat zaman Megalitik.

Menariknya, dengan latar belakang Gunung Gede yang jauh di utara, situs ini juga menghadap terlebih dahulu pada satu bukit yang bernama Pasir Pogor di depannya.***

Penulis, pencinta pusaka alam dan budaya leluhur, anggota Kelompok Riset Cekungan Bandung, staf pengajar di Fakultas Ilmu Kebumian dan Teknologi Mineral, ITB, KK Geologi Terapan.

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